Classic bob

Haircut guide

Technique used: reverse graduation

Preparation

The haircut is split into four areas: back; side; crown; and fringe (it is not always necessary to cut a fringe)

Back area (to achieve reverse graduation)

Section off the hair at the centre back of the head.
The first cutting section is one of the most important sections as it forms the guide to the rest of the hair cut.
Cut the first section on the skin in a slight downward angle.
To maintain balance, cut the other side immediately.
To achieve a well-balanced cut, the hair should be wet at all times.
The client should be sitting correctly with their head tilted slightly forward.
Cut each of the following sections on the skin. Comb the hair towards the longest point.
The hair is cut from the inside out, enabling the stylist to keep the diagonal shape.
Comb each section towards the longest point. Because the hair on top is longer than that underneath, the hair turns under when it falls.
It is important to check the balance constantly as you progress through the cut. This could save you a lot of time because if you don't discover the balance is wrong until you have completed the cut, you will have to start again.
Take diagonal sections to below the crown and the back of the ear.
Leave out the crown area to compensate for any strong growth pattern that may distort the shape if cut in the normal way
Cut the crown area after you have completed the perimeter. Make the cut free hand. The hair will fall freely into its natural position.

Side area

The side area guide follows the length from behind the ear.
Split the hair into three sections. This is to accommodate the ear. If you don't do this, the ear will distort your cutting line.
Take your first segment from the back of the ear.
Using the guide from the back of the head, cut your first side area guide freehand.
Comb the second segment over the ear using the wide teeth of the comb. This will relax the tension of the hair and allow for the ear.
Cut the third segment freehand as well.
Make your side cutting line diagonal and longer towards the front. This allows the hair to fall forwards.
Cut all the following sections freehand.
Make the sectioning pattern horizontal. Work the sections up to the centre parting or natural side parting.
Once one side is complete, cut the other side to maintain balance. To achieve a good balance:
The hair should be wet throughout the cut
The head is should be in the same position
Keep the tension on the cutting line correct and even
Use facial features such as the jawline to check balance.

Fringe area (It is not always necessary to cut a fringe)

The fringe area is also cut freehand. This allows for any movement or irregular hairlines.
The fringe area is usually a triangular section from the outside corner of the eyes to the front centre of the head.
Keep the hair wet as you cut and use the wide teeth of your comb to achieve a relaxed tension.
It is important to cut from the outside corner of the eye to the middle and then balance immediately on the other side.
The hair is allowed to fall freely from the head into its natural shape.

Crown area (triangular section left uncut to compensate for strong crown growth)

Cut the triangular section at the crown area when you have finished the rest of the hair cut but before you blow-dry.
Cut the section freehand and with the hair falling in its natural position.
Use the bob length as your guide.
When you have finished the hair cut, check visually for any stray hair along the edges. Ask your client to shake their head gently so that you can see the hair swing and fall back to its natural position.
Blow-dry using a classic styling brush to encourage the hair to turn under slightly.
When the hair is completely dry, check the shape again, especially the fringe area. The hair on the front hairline has a tendency to become distorted.

Trial Haircuts
- Classic bob
  - Haircut guide
  - Step-by-step guide